Materials

From the selection of leathers to the finishing touches

LEATHERWORK

The beauty of leather is vital to enhancing the creative vision and artisan craftsmanship.

It is found in the “hand” that determines the feel of the leather, its malleability, its hold, and the perfection of its surface. Polène uses only ISO 9001- certified leathers, the quality of which is checked multiple times by the tanneries and the brand’s craftsmen before the patterns are cut and again at the end of the manufacturing process.

All leathers used in the collection are sourced from the food industry, and given to tanneries rather than being thrown away.

This is why Polène bags are never made with exotic leather. Embossing is used to create the crocodile or lizard patterns on the leather, giving the appearance of scales.

Tanning

Tanning is a critical step used in the leather industry to convert hide into leather. Polène has chosen a chrome-based process, which produces leathers that are more resistant to wear and tear (light marks, scratches, and stains) over time.

In order to ensure that its practices meet the relevant environmental standards, the brand works exclusively with Spanish and Italian tanneries that comply with European regulations, which are among the strictest in the world.

Strictly audited, they have obtained the international Leather Working Group and/or ISO 14001 certifications, labels that focus notably on the management of water resources and how tanning waste is treated before reaching purification stations.

UPCYCLING OF LEATHER OFF-CUTS

Polène is committed to reusing leather off-cuts as much as possible in order to honor the efforts involved in its manufacture, as well as the nobility of the raw materials used.

This is why the workshops are equipped with machines that have digital scanners to optimize cutting placements. The remaining pieces are either repurposed to create small leather goods or given to Ubrique* artisans during their apprenticeships so that they can practice with real-world samples.

Polène is committed to expanding the number of creative projects that allow it to “upcycle” its leather off-cuts so that they can be recycled for a new, quality purpose. A comprehensive line of charms and small leather goods made from leather off-cuts has been developed, with the exclusive collection handcrafted at the New York boutique following suit. Last but not least, designers and artisans mark the end-of-year festivities by creating Christmas decorations out of leather off-cuts.

*Spanish city that is home to Polène’s production operations.

SIGNATURE CLASPS AND METALLIC PARTS

Jewelry is a distinct profession with its own body of knowledge. Keen to create the sorts of details that make Polène’s pieces unique, the brand designs custom pieces that are beautiful, functional, and well-made. This requires a lengthy design and prototyping process in collaboration with specialized workshops in order to come up with inventive mechanisms.

Gold plating with PVD

For its clasps, bottom studs, and shoulder strap buttons, Polène uses the PVD plating* method borrowed from fine watchmaking to ensure that the gold plating does not oxidize, fade, or flake over time.

The stainless steel component is placed in a gold-filled sealed chamber to absorb its particles via a magnetic field, as opposed to going through numerous baths. Unlike the more common galvanization process, PVD plating does not use chemical baths or additives, so it does not generate waste that is harmful to the environment.

*Physical vapor deposition